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Qogir, in Tajik language, means "tall and magnificent". The main peak of Karakorum Range, the 8,611-meter Qogir is the second highest peak in the world, which is well-known as "K2" abroad. Including Qogir, there are four peaks over 8,000 meters clustering closely together. On the east side of Qogir: Broad (8,051m), the first, then Gasherbrum2(8,028m) and Gasherbrum1(8,080m) . Besides, more than twenty 7,000-meter peaks stand in this area, such as Crown Peak, thus make it the second center for mountaineering. Qogir consists of six mountain ridge , among which the northwest - southeast mountain ridge is the main ridge line of Karakorum Range as well as the boundary between China and Pakistan. The summit of Qogir are Pyramid-shaped and full of steeply-rising snow cliffs. On the slope walls scatter the traces of chutes caused by snow avalanches . The north side is on an average of over 45', looking just as if being cut by a knife and split by an ax. It's about 4,700 meters from the north-side base camp to the summit.
In the north lies Qogir Glaciers with its complicated and changeable terrain, the tattered surface of the glacier and the crisscrossing open and hidden crevasses. The steep rock walls or cliffs in the valley west of the glacier are frequented by rolling rocks, ice avalanches and snow avalanches. The Yinsugaidi Glacier, which amounts to 44 kilometers, is right on both sides of Qogir.
CLIMATE
Not only does Qogir has characteristics of dangerous and perilous terrain but also the extremely harsh weather. The rainy season of this area is start from May and lasts till September every year. From mid-September to mid-April of the next year, the powerful and piercingly cold westerly wind brings about the bitterly cold winter, when the minimum temperature may even be as low as -50 'C and the greatest velocity of wind may exceed 25 meters per second, making any mountaineering activity impossible. Moreover, in the months from May to September, with the increased temperature, melting snow and rainfall, the water level of the river valley is greatly raised, standing in the way of those who desire to go into the mountain.
The best time to go into the mountain, therefore, should between May and June when the rivers rose but are not in spate. The most favorable time to reach the summit, however, proves to be from July to September when the temperature there rises a lot and many fine days on end are available.
ROUTE
The route leading to Qogir is the longest among those of China's opened peaks. Starting from Yecheng, up Xinjiang-Tibetan highway to Mazar, and then, another 25km driving along the simply-built highway, you arrive Mazar Dala. Camels would wait here and carry all your stuff on. The base camp(Yinghong Tan 3,900 meters) is 6 days and 90 kilometers away from here. On the way to the base camp you will need to climb a 4,800-meter pass named Agele Daban and cross Keraqing River several times by riding camels which is not available in July and August. Carrying a little boat and rafting on the river will make much fun.
In 1902, an English mountaineering team made the first attempt to climb Qogir but failed. Down through the 50 years, man had tried many a time but achieved no success. It was until July 31, 1954 that L. Lacedelli, an Italian, and his partner spent about 100 days to set the record of reaching the summit along the southeast ridge in Pakistan.
In the year of 1976 and 1977 respectively, CMA (China Mountaineering Association) set up mountaineering teams to scout up the route line on the north side. On August 4 1982, Japan Alpine Association became the first who left their footprints on the summit along the north ridge. Thereafter, teams from Italy, U.S.A. and the Yokohama Alpine Association of Japan succeed one after another in conquering Qogir from the Chinese side.